This quartet makes for a dish that's got some kick to it, but still oozes with familiar comfort. Sue Conley, co-founder of Cowgirl Creamery, a company in California known for its artisan cheeses, models her mac on an Italian dish known as Quattro Formaggi ("four cheeses"), using Parmesan, Gorgonzola dolce, provolone and fontina.
Play your cheeses right, and you'll end up with a dish that's silky, smooth and richly flavored. Others-think Parmesan, smoked Gouda and any kind of cheddar, whether white or orange, sharp or aged-have deep flavor. Some-such as Gruyère, Emmental and Comté-are known for their superior meltability. The thinking behind the double (or triple, or quadruple) dose is based on the fact that different cheeses have different strengths. The common thread among some of the most beloved mac and cheese recipes out there is a combination of at least two different types of cheese-and as many as four. No surprise, probably: It's in the cheese-or, more accurately, chees es. There's one element, though, that will make or break a from-scratch version. There are as many ways to make mac and cheese as there are opinions on homemade versus boxed (our take: there's a time and a place for both!).
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